Constructing an Outdoors Turtle Pen

Outdoor Turtle Pen

One option for the serious turtle keeper is to construct an outdoor turtle pen. This project is most satisfying in areas where climate allows the turtles to be kept outside permanently; in most areas of the country winter conditions necessitate bringing the turtles inside during cold weather. If you keep turtles native to your area, however, they can hibernate naturally right inside their pen.

The pen should be as large as practical, and should contain a variety of microhabitats–areas of shade as well as areas of sun. It is very important that the turtle pen have at least some areas of shade at all times during the day, as unprotected tortoises can overheat quickly in a full midday sun. At the same time, basking spots must always be available. The turtles should be able to thermoregulate by moving from sun to shade as needed.

Several large, flat rocks can serve as basking spots and as heat retainers. You will also need some rock caves where the turtles can retreat for shade and whenever they need to feel secure. If the bulk of the pen area is left in its natural state, with several inches of soil, some leaf litter and vegetation, the turtles will spend most of their time happily digging and foraging for invertebrates and edible plants. Make sure there are no toxic plants anywhere in the enclosure.

A colony of aquatic turtles can be kept outside in an artificial pond. To produce an artificial pond, an area the size and depth that you want the finished pond to be must be dug out. A good pond should be a minimum of ten feet across anfrd at least two feet deep, with no rocks or other protruding objects left at the bottom of the hole.

Once you have excavated a suitable hole, line it with a strong waterproof material, such as butyl rubber, that serves the same function as a swimming pool liner. This prevents leaks and keeps the pond water from draining away, and should be as thick as practical to prevent tears. The liner should overlap the edges of the pond by about a foot with the overlapping edge covered over by several inches of rocks and soil to hold it firmly in place.

Next, fill the interior of the liner with four or five inches of clean sand, to push the liner flat against the bottom and to protect it from rocks, branches, turtle claws and other potential sources of puncture. Once the liner is firmly in place, add enough water to fill the pond.

Shallow areas near the shore of an artificial pond can be planted with cattails, pickerel weed and other aquatic plants that provide cover for young turtles and attract insect life to the pond. The turtles can use a number of flat rocks scattered along the shore as entry and exit ramps and as basking spots. Another good idea is to place a large tree branch or trunk in the pond, so it forms a long basking platform that can be reached from either land or water. Most aquatic turtles prefer to bask on logs or branches that extend out into the water so they can dive to safety at the first hint of danger.

If you live in an area of the country where winters are cool, it is best to stock your pond only with native species, or at least only species from temperate zones that normally hibernate in the winter. The turtles will bury themselves in the sand at the bottom of the pond or in the mud at the shores to hibernate through the winter.

If you live in an area that is warm year-round, you will be able to maintain tropical species in your pond. Any nonnative species of turtle must be kept securely in your pond to prevent them from escaping and becoming established in the local ecosystem.

The perimeter of the turtle pen can be made from wooden planks, bricks or stones. The wall must be at least several inches higher than the length of the longest turtle you will be keeping. If you make the wall just high enough that you can step over it, the turtles will be prevented from climbing out and you will be spared the necessity of making a door or gate for the pen. If you are keeping turtles that are good climbers, it is best to have an overhanging lip around the inside top of the wall to prevent escapes.

Since tortoises are excellent diggers, you will need some provision to discourage your pets from tunneling their way to freedom. Sink all the walls of the pen a foot or so into the ground. Although the turtles may repeatedly attempt to dig their way underneath the fence, eventually they will tire and give up. If you intend to keep the turtles in their pen year-round, there must be enough dirt and leaf litter available for the turtles to get beneath the frost line so they can hibernate in winter.

Excerpted from “The Turtle: An Owner’s Guide to a Happy Healthy Pet”. (c) copyright 1997 by Howell Book House.

Friday Finds: Tortoise Puppet

Christmas is around the corner so it’s time to look at Friday Finds that would make great presents! To start off the list, here’s a nice looking tortoise puppet with movable legs and a retractable head!

From the amazon.com website - 
This 13-inch-long tortoise puppet has a soft green reptilian body, gleaming brown eyes, and a smooth, beige suede tortoise shell. With your help, Tortoise can creep along at her leisurely pace (about a mile every 9 hours, according to the tortoise fact sheet printed on her label), or, if she senses danger, quickly retract her head and front legs into her shell, a skill which makes her particularly well-suited for games of peekaboo. A mature and sage-looking creature, Tortoise makes a terrific trouper for your puppet show, or simply a fun take-along friend (talk to her in the car, she’s a great listener). Be sure to check out Tortoise’s label for fascinating facts about tortoises as well as the Hottentot version of the famous “Tortoise and the Hare” folktale.

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Book Review: The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Turtles…

The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Turtles…
By Liz Palika

(This article originally published on Turtletopia.com in October 2000.)

Format: Hardcover, 270pp.

ISBN: 0876051433
Publisher: Macmillan General Reference
Pub. Date: December 1997

If you’re a beginner, this book is definitely for you! As a new turtle/tortoise keeper, you will need guidance that is not loaded down with technical or scientific jargon (and it’s a nice perk that the book wasn’t written in the 70′s!) Liz does a great “spell-it-out” overview of various species and general care and maintenance for the beginner. She also makes it very easy to read and with lots of practical information based on her vast experiences.

If you love to read a how-to book, this is one you will enjoy. But if you love fancy photos, 4-color pictures for reference purpose, etc… it’s not what you need. For a beginners manual, this book is really quite good. With a lighthearted writing style and little tidbits of trivia, this will be an enjoyable read.

In this book…

1. Is a Turtle or Tortoise Right for You?
   1. What Are Turtles and Tortoises?
   2. What Are You Expecting from a Turtle?
   3. What Does Turtle Ownership Require?
   4. What Does Your Family Think?
   5. What Kind Would You Like?
   6. Finding a Turtle or Tortoise for You
2. Welcome Home
   1. Let There Be Light!
   2. Oh Yea, It’s Hot!
   3. Water, the Magic Liquid
   4. What Else Do You Need to Know?
   5. Home Sweet Home: Aquatic or Semi-Aquatic Turtles
   6. Home Sweet Home: Terrestrial Turtles or Small Tortoises
   7. Home Sweet Outside Enclosure
3. Open Wide
   1. You Are What You Eat
   2. Evaluating Your Pet’s Health
   3. Sex, Marriage, and Children
   4. Sleeping the Winter Away
4. The Who’s Who of Turtles
   1. In the Water and Out
   2. The Landlubbers
   3. The Boxed Set
5. The Who’s Who of Tortoises
   1. Teeny Tortoises
   2. The Middlemen
   3. The Special Beauties
   4. The Really Big Boys

Appendix A: A Latin Lesson
Appendix B: Where to Learn More
Appendix C: Glossary of Turtle and Tortoise Terms

Buy the Complete Idiot’s Guide to Turtles & Tortoises (The Complete Idiot’s Guide) >>

Book Review: Turtles of the World

Turtles of the World
By Carl H. Ernst and Roger W. Barbour

(This article originally published on Turtletopia.com in October 2002.)

Format: Paperback, 313pp.
ISBN: 1560982128
Publisher: Smithsonian Institution Press
Pub. Date: September 1992
Edition Desc: REPRINT

If you’re really into turtles, this is a reference book you will have on your shelf. It has all 257 known species of turtles arranged by family, with identification keys for genera and species. The descriptions include recognition details, distribution, habitat and ecology, feeding, reproduction, and endangered status. The worldwide population decline is discussed extensively. And to boot, a few color photographs of select species, with plenty of b&w photographs of each species, anatomical line drawings, and distribution maps.

I consider this reference book suitable for both the specialist and the general reader. If you are a “green” beginner, you may want to stay away from this book until you really “fall in love”. But if you’re a book worm like me, or aren’t afraid of the technical jargon, this makes an excellent addition to the library!

In this book…

As you know, if you are familiar with the format of my reviews, this is the section where I would post the table of contents for a book. Due to the nature of this book (being that it is a reference book), I will not be posting the table of contents listing. That would be like posting the table of contents for a volume of an encyclopedia. Can you only imagine?

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Book Review: Turtles…As A Hobby

Turtles…As A Hobby
By W.P. Mara

(This article originally published on Turtletopia.com in October 2000.)

Abundant information and many color pictures are what usually make a good book. The ability to keep a reader interested while educating them is essential. “Turtles…as a hobby” has that ability.

The author starts out with a brief overview on the attraction of turtles and how he became involved with them, and from there begins to explain the basics of turtle care. Also, for those picture people out there, you will be happy to know that there were maybe five pages in the whole book that did not have a picture on them. This is definitely a recommended book.

NOTE: This book is one of many in the Save-Our-Planet-Book series started by the Dr. Herbert R. Axelrod Foundation. All the profits from the sale of this series of books go towards the purchase of land in the virgin rain forests of Brazil, in order to preserve them from explotaition. If you would like further information on this foundation, write:

Dr. Herbert R. Axelrod Foundation
Box 427
Neptune City, N.J 07753
USA

In This Book…

1. Preface
2. The Basics
3. Acquiring the Turtle and Equipment
4. Captive Care
5. Breeding
6. Sickness and Health
7. A Few Interesting Species
8. Index

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Cleaning Ponds

“backyard pond” by massdistraction on flickr

Here are some easy to follow directions for cleaning your pond once it has been set up:

1. Remove marginal plants first and store them temporarily in a shady spot, watering them regularly to prevent them drying out.
2. Wrap any wilting plants in damp newspaper for temporary protection.
3. Net off floating plants and keep them in buckets or trays of water.
4. Place a temporary container for the fish and turtles somehwere near the pond, but shaded from the heat of the sun. A round wading pool with a good surface area is ideal.
5. Fill the wading pool with the cleanest water drawn from near the surface of the pond.
6. Unless the water is particularly foul, save as much as you can at this stage in buckets, so that the balance will be quickly restore in the refilled pond.
7. Use the rest of the water from the pond for watering flowerbeds and shrubs.
8. It is easier to catch the fish and turtles when the pond is nearly empty; this is now the time to do so.
9. Make sure the wading pool is sufficiently aerated by installing a circulation pump or air stone.
10. If you also have fish, cover the container with a tight-fitting fine mesh net to prevent the fish from leaping out.
11. Drain the pond as low as possible and double check for any small fish you have overlooked.
12. Remove the layer of debris on the pond base with a dustpan and bucket rather than the pump.
13. If you need to step into the pond, check that the base will support your weight.
14. Rinse the pond down and brush off any excess blanket weed from the sides.
15. Begin refilling the pond.
16. Reposition the plants in the pond as soon as it is sufficiently full.
17. Add a water conditioner to the inflowing water to neutralize any chlorine.
18. If you manage to save any of the old water, add it to the pond.
19. Allow the water in the refilled pond to warm slightly before transferring the fish back in.
20. Return any floating plants.
21. The pond will take some time to settle and may appear rather cloudy for a few weeks.
22. Feed the fish, but only sparingly at first. Avoid adding any new fish until the pond has completely recovered and established the nitrogen cycle once again.

Friday Finds: Green Turtle Hatchlings Puzzle

This week’s Friday Find is one I found over 10 years ago, but still a favorite in my household!

From the Manufacturer

Product Description

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Description: Common Musk Turtle

Common Musk Turtle

Wheeh! Does something stink? Well you just might have made a Musk Turtle mad! All musk turtles have 2 pairs of musk glands beneath the border of the carapace. The secretions are so strong that they have come to be known as a “stinkpot” or “stinking jim”.

Common Musk Turtles are found in southern Ontario and coastal Maine to Florida, and west to central Texas, and up north to southern Wisconson. Adult common Musk Turtles have been known to grow upto as much as 5-6 5/8″ (12.7-17 cm).

Physical Appearance:
Common Musk Turtles are general detected by the 2 light stripes that run from their head to their chin and down to the throat. The carapace color usually runs from an olive-brown to a dark gray. Because it spends extended periods underwater, the common musk often has a rich growth of algae and many leeches on its shell (the leeches generally present themselves in the wild).

Character:
The most prominent behavior of the common Musk Turtle is its defensive tactic. When disturbed, this turtle will quickly release a foul-smelling liquid from its musk glands. Also, the male is particularly aggressive and will not think twice about biting

Being typically noctorunal, the common Musk is generally inactive in daylight hours, remaining buried in the mud or resting on the bottom. Basking is not a favorite habit of this turtle, as it is rarely found out of water. Most basking occurs while the turtle rests in shallow water with only the top of its carapace exposed to the sunlight. It may, however, climb onto the river bank or onto fallen trees to bask. Older turtles drop into the water when disturbed but younger ones hold on with such a grip that it is sometimes difficult to remove them.

Book Review: Turtles Today

Turtles Today
By: John Coborn

(This review was originally published on Turtletopia.com in September 1999.)

If you’re looking for a quick, condensed identification and instructional book on turtles and tortoises, Turtles Today is the book for you. The topics are organized in an easy to understand manner, and there are plenty of pictures to keep even the least attentive reader captive.

Turtles Today is quick and easy reading, covering topics such as feeding, housing, health, breeding, and many others. I especially liked the last two chapters of the book covering the different types of land tortoises and aquatic turtles. Including pictures with each species description was a nice touch. By looking at the cover, you might get the impression that this book is out of date, but most of the information it contains is as true today as it was when it was originally written.

As an avid herpetologist, or just a beginning herp lover, this is definitely a book to have on your shelf.

In This Book…

1. Introduction
2. The World of Turtles (Yesterday and Today)
3. Home Sweet Home (Housing Your Turtles)
4. Mealtime! (The Diet of Turtles and Tortoises)
5. Making More Turtles (Reproduction and Captive Breeding)
6. Turn Your Head and Cough (Health Problems of Captive Turtles)
7. Living in Waterworld (Aquatic Turtle Species)
8. Keeping Their Feet on the Ground (Terrestrial Turtle Species)
9. Other Turtle Books by T.F.H.

Buy Turtles Today (Complete Authoritative Guide) on Amazon.com >>

Care Sheet: Common Musk Turtle

Common Musk Turtle

Habitat:
The common musk turtle is found in almost any waterway with a slow current and soft bottom. This includes rivers, streams, lakes, ponds, sloughs, canals, swamps, bayous, and oxbows. The fall line may limit the distribution of the musk turtle, which is found only above it in rivers draining into the Gulf of Mexico and they stay away from brackish waters.

Temperature and Humidity:
In Florida and south-central Texas, common musk turtles may be active all year long, but farther north, common musks are usually forced to hibernate in the winter. Their activity can vary geographically from about 200 days (April to October) in southeastern Pennsylvania to 330 days in Oklahoma due to the drops in temperature. Normal water temp should range between 70 – 78 degrees F.

Food:
Juvenile Common Musks are definetly carnivorous, feed mainly on small aquatic insects, algae, and carrion, whereas the adults feed on anything available, becoming omnivorous. The common musk is known to eat earthworms, leeches, clams, snails, crabs, crayfish, aquatic insects, fish eggs, minnows, tadpoles and adult frogs, algae, and parts of higher plants.

Cleanliness & Health:
Common Musk Turtles will deficate immediately before or after a meal, so it is a good practice to have a seperate food dish to feed them with. This will help keep the water cleaner.